Articles

A selection of musings from our weekly newsletter, The Weekend Edit.

Three Dishes

December 29, 2023

Three Dishes: Walrus Rodeo

Raise your hand if you had a dilapidated strip mall in Little Haiti pegged as Miami’s next great culinary hub. First came Boia De, Alex Meyer and Luciana Giangrandi’s intimate 27-seat canteen whose creative Italian-American mashups earned it a Michelin Star. Following Boia De’s runaway success comes Walrus Rodeo, a playful sister restaurant a few doors down opened in partnership with Chef Jeff Maxfield (Toscana Divino, Ironside Pizza). 
The imported Napoli pizza oven is the beating heart of the lively dining room, which is decked out with a pressed tin ceiling, custom country western wallpaper by local artist Beth Rhodes, and an ethereal mural behind the oven by San Diego-based Tatiana Ortiz-Rubio. 
Highlights on the wood-fired menu include charred bone marrow with crispy capers, sourdough, and garlicky bagna càuda dipping sauce; fired romaine topped with pecorino, hazelnuts, and crispy leeks; and fall-off-the-bone short rib glazed in bbq bordelaise. For cocktails, you want the Silk Press: a combo of Great Circle Coffee espresso, raspberry, and cognac, served in a Nick and Nora glass (invented circa 1987 at the Rainbow Room). 
Here, three more standout dishes to try.

December 29, 2023

Three Dishes: Walrus Rodeo

Raise your hand if you had a dilapidated strip mall in Little Haiti pegged as Miami’s next great culinary hub. First came Boia De, Alex Meyer and Luciana Giangrandi’s intimate 27-seat canteen whose creative Italian-American mashups earned it a Michelin Star. Following Boia De’s runaway success comes Walrus Rodeo, a playful sister restaurant a few doors down opened in partnership with Chef Jeff Maxfield (Toscana Divino, Ironside Pizza). 
The imported Napoli pizza oven is the beating heart of the lively dining room, which is decked out with a pressed tin ceiling, custom country western wallpaper by local artist Beth Rhodes, and an ethereal mural behind the oven by San Diego-based Tatiana Ortiz-Rubio. 
Highlights on the wood-fired menu include charred bone marrow with crispy capers, sourdough, and garlicky bagna càuda dipping sauce; fired romaine topped with pecorino, hazelnuts, and crispy leeks; and fall-off-the-bone short rib glazed in bbq bordelaise. For cocktails, you want the Silk Press: a combo of Great Circle Coffee espresso, raspberry, and cognac, served in a Nick and Nora glass (invented circa 1987 at the Rainbow Room). 
Here, three more standout dishes to try.

December 22, 2023

Three Dishes: Le Pavillon

New York City is constantly referencing itself—a fact laid bare by the many restaurants that pay tribute to its essence. Cue Daniel Boulud, the renowned French chef and fixture of Manhattan’s dining scene for more than 40 years. For his latest venture in the splashy One Vanderbilt tower, Boulud chose the name Le Pavillon, resurrecting a vestige of the 1939 New York World’s Fair.  
An iconic locale, the original Le Pavillon went on to define French cuisine in the city. Boulud pays homage to that legacy, fusing the classic and the contemporary. Designed by Isay Weinfeld, the soaring windows, sculptural glass chandelier, and 20-foot olive trees are nothing short of transportive. The menu includes charred octopus with Bang Island mussels and squid in saffron with cherry tomatoes and kimchi; Kaluga caviar–studded Norwegian salmon; and butter-poached Maine lobster with tonka bean chestnut puree.
Below, three more standout dishes to try.

December 22, 2023

Three Dishes: Le Pavillon

New York City is constantly referencing itself—a fact laid bare by the many restaurants that pay tribute to its essence. Cue Daniel Boulud, the renowned French chef and fixture of Manhattan’s dining scene for more than 40 years. For his latest venture in the splashy One Vanderbilt tower, Boulud chose the name Le Pavillon, resurrecting a vestige of the 1939 New York World’s Fair.  
An iconic locale, the original Le Pavillon went on to define French cuisine in the city. Boulud pays homage to that legacy, fusing the classic and the contemporary. Designed by Isay Weinfeld, the soaring windows, sculptural glass chandelier, and 20-foot olive trees are nothing short of transportive. The menu includes charred octopus with Bang Island mussels and squid in saffron with cherry tomatoes and kimchi; Kaluga caviar–studded Norwegian salmon; and butter-poached Maine lobster with tonka bean chestnut puree.
Below, three more standout dishes to try.

December 15, 2023

Three Dishes: Le Jardinier Miami

We’d wager the incognito magistrates behind the Michelin Guide knew Le Jardinier Miami would earn a coveted star before they even crossed the threshold. It’s true that we eat with our eyes first, and to step foot in the jewel box of a space is to be instantly transported into the visionary world of French interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon. The restaurant is eye candy, an Art Deco-meets-modernist warren of kelly greens and gleaming black marble.


The Francophile menu by Chef Alain Verzeroli presents vegetables as haute art, from the golden beets served with red beet mostarda and goat cheese drizzled in herbal oil to the mushroom velouté in parsley emulsion and sourdough croutons. Don’t miss the citrus cheesecake with graham crumbs and white chocolate for dessert.
Below, three more standout dishes to try.

December 15, 2023

Three Dishes: Le Jardinier Miami

We’d wager the incognito magistrates behind the Michelin Guide knew Le Jardinier Miami would earn a coveted star before they even crossed the threshold. It’s true that we eat with our eyes first, and to step foot in the jewel box of a space is to be instantly transported into the visionary world of French interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon. The restaurant is eye candy, an Art Deco-meets-modernist warren of kelly greens and gleaming black marble.


The Francophile menu by Chef Alain Verzeroli presents vegetables as haute art, from the golden beets served with red beet mostarda and goat cheese drizzled in herbal oil to the mushroom velouté in parsley emulsion and sourdough croutons. Don’t miss the citrus cheesecake with graham crumbs and white chocolate for dessert.
Below, three more standout dishes to try.

December 8, 2023

Bangkok Supper Club in Three Dishes

When The New York Times food czar Pete Wells deemed Bangkok Supper Club a much-coveted “Critic’s Pick” recently, he shined a spotlight on what we already knew. It’s good. Really, really good. The restaurant was designed by Bangkok-based firm Taste Space, which used only Thai materials in the interiors, even the paint. The food is just as authentic.

Tucked away on Hudson Street, the 60-seat bolthole champions charcoal-grilled dishes you might find in Bangkok itself—albeit served in a more made-for-photography fashion, Chef Max Wittawat having appeared on Iron Chef stateside and in Thailand and Japan.

There’s beef tongue brined in galangal and lemongrass for more than 24 hours, charred and served alongside Tamarind Jaew sauce and toasted rice powder. The octopus, too, is slow-cooked over charcoal and arrives with pickled garlic sauce. Don’t forget to order a Smokey Milk cocktail (sake, gin, fermented rambutan, clarified milk, and pear cordial) for a palate cleanser.

Below, three more standout dishes to try.

December 8, 2023

Bangkok Supper Club in Three Dishes

When The New York Times food czar Pete Wells deemed Bangkok Supper Club a much-coveted “Critic’s Pick” recently, he shined a spotlight on what we already knew. It’s good. Really, really good. The restaurant was designed by Bangkok-based firm Taste Space, which used only Thai materials in the interiors, even the paint. The food is just as authentic.

Tucked away on Hudson Street, the 60-seat bolthole champions charcoal-grilled dishes you might find in Bangkok itself—albeit served in a more made-for-photography fashion, Chef Max Wittawat having appeared on Iron Chef stateside and in Thailand and Japan.

There’s beef tongue brined in galangal and lemongrass for more than 24 hours, charred and served alongside Tamarind Jaew sauce and toasted rice powder. The octopus, too, is slow-cooked over charcoal and arrives with pickled garlic sauce. Don’t forget to order a Smokey Milk cocktail (sake, gin, fermented rambutan, clarified milk, and pear cordial) for a palate cleanser.

Below, three more standout dishes to try.

November 22, 2023

Kebab Queen in Three Dishes

No one gets the wrong end of the stick at Kebab Queen, a 10-seat London speakeasy tucked in a subterranean lair under Covent Garden’s Maison Bab. Notably, all the dishes on the eight-course tasting menu here are served without plates—and without silverware. Instead, each morsel is either handed to you or artfully arranged on the heated Dekton countertop by the chefs whirring about the open kitchen.

That unexpected approach to service adds a dollop of wonder and childlike fun to the dining experience, not to mention a sensorial boost, whether you’re indulging in a barbecue-glazed Xinjiang lamb skewer or Japanese milk bread served with a rainbow lineup of butter in flavors ranging from maple and miso to fermented gooseberry and lime.

The brainchild of Michelin-grade chefs and restaurateurs Manu Canales, Ed Brunet, and Stephen Tozer, Kebab Queen’s chef-in-residence program recently welcomed Pamir Zeydan, a Turkish-born toque who aims to explore the genesis of the kebab, bite by bite, over six courses. We’re here for every soupçon.

Here, three standout dishes from the current menu.

November 22, 2023

Kebab Queen in Three Dishes

No one gets the wrong end of the stick at Kebab Queen, a 10-seat London speakeasy tucked in a subterranean lair under Covent Garden’s Maison Bab. Notably, all the dishes on the eight-course tasting menu here are served without plates—and without silverware. Instead, each morsel is either handed to you or artfully arranged on the heated Dekton countertop by the chefs whirring about the open kitchen.

That unexpected approach to service adds a dollop of wonder and childlike fun to the dining experience, not to mention a sensorial boost, whether you’re indulging in a barbecue-glazed Xinjiang lamb skewer or Japanese milk bread served with a rainbow lineup of butter in flavors ranging from maple and miso to fermented gooseberry and lime.

The brainchild of Michelin-grade chefs and restaurateurs Manu Canales, Ed Brunet, and Stephen Tozer, Kebab Queen’s chef-in-residence program recently welcomed Pamir Zeydan, a Turkish-born toque who aims to explore the genesis of the kebab, bite by bite, over six courses. We’re here for every soupçon.

Here, three standout dishes from the current menu.

Designing Delicious

December 29, 2023

Designing Delicious: Octavia

Californian cuisine isn’t so much a food category as a state of mind. Nico Pena, Executive Chef of San Francisco’s Octavia, embodies the locavore philosophy whose roots trace back to the great Alice Waters and her seminal restaurant Chez Panisse, which debuted in the 1970s. Owned by Chef Melissa Perello, Octavia is more than a cozy neighborhood establishment—it's a testament to the Golden State’s farm-to-table ethos. “We focus on the relationships with farmers, they dictate the menu,” Pena says. “The concept is very market-driven.”
Housed in a rustic space among the Victorian homes that dot the Lower Pac Heights neighborhood, interiors are adorned in a mural by local artist Caroline Lizarraga and accented with vintage pottery from NorCal maker Elsie Green.

November 22, 2023

Designing Delicious: Cuina Alba

The sourdough starter brigade rejoiced when Chef Adam Leonti published the cookbook Flour Lab: An At Home Guide to Baking with Freshly Milled Grains. So it’s perhaps no surprise that the Italian restaurant where he serves as Head Chef, New York City’s Cucina Alba, also has a need to knead—churning out fresh focaccia in a Roman oven and milling Pennsylvania-grown wheat right on the premises.

Even the space itself has the warm, comforting feel of a plump loaf of sourdough, fresh from the oven. Tucked along the High Line on 18th Street, Alba’s interior is sheathed in blonde woods, gauzy draperies, and sculptural banquettes. The menu is dotted with the types of dishes Americans naturally gravitate to when they’re living la dolce vita abroad, such as spaghettini vongole and scampi-style gnocchi studded with shrimp from the Gulf. “My family is from Italy and has been cooking Italian food my whole life,” says New York-born Leonti, who helped open the place in partnership with Prince Street Hospitality. “We’re focusing on those things that we’re familiar with while putting our own twist to make sure it feels like you’re at home in New York at the same time.”

One particularly beloved offering is the agnolotti, which is filled with caramelized onion and cowled with slivers of black truffle. “It’s taken off right away,” Leonti says. Another signature, a crispy chicken served with Calabrian bomba sauce, “is almost like a saltimbocca with the sage just snuck underneath the skin,” he says…made all the more delicious with a negroni poured tableside to the tune of music by Gianni Morandi. “You’re really going to feel like you’re not in the city for a day—and maybe you’re on your vacation in Italy,” Leonti says. “We’re really trying to bring people to those places they’ve been, and those memories.” Consider us transported.

October 20, 2023

Designing Delicious: Cosme

“A Mexican restaurant should be high-energy. When you think of Mexico, you think about partying,” says Enrique Olvera, founder of Cosme. A household name for the culinary crowd, Olvera is best known for redefining Mexican cuisine at Pujol, a longtime resident of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. His first foray into the New York dining scene, Cosme melds the city’s penchant for a particular brand of understated chic and the liveliness expected of a Mexican cantina.

At Cosme, contemporary Mexican fare takes on new cultural influences. Fluke aquachile is topped with thinly sliced radishes and cucumber and dusted with grated wasabi; sweet potato tamal is flavored with guajillo chilis and Japanese togarashi. Rohan ducks are cured for three days, seared to golden brown, and braised with Mexican Coke and ancho chili pepper to create Cosme’s signature carnitas. The cornhusk meringue, an Instagram darling, combines savory corn mousse and burnt vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt and pulverized corn husk. The menu is bolstered by an agave-forward beverage program from Jorsand Diaz that hews traditional with palomas and margaritas, though some cocktails play with global ingredients like yuzu and Calpico.

November 22, 2023

Signature Dish: Cucina Alba

At Cucina Alba, amber hues are for more than waves of grain, they’re the sign your steak fiorentina is cooked to perfection. After sprinkling the 20-day, dry-aged American wagyu with fennel salt and grilling to the desired color, a pat of butter is added to the cast iron and infused with crushed garlic, chilis, and herbs. Once the butter browns, in goes the fresh cream and parmesan to form a caramelized crust. Book a table on the Dorsia app to taste for yourself.

November 17, 2023

Signature Dish: Cosme

Good things take time. For proof, just look to Cosme where preparation for the signature duck carnitas is a multi-day affair. After curing for three days, the ducks are braised overnight atop a mirepoix of onion, garlic, and ancho chili. The next day they’re ready to be crisped and served with tortillas for self-serve tacos we’re more than willing to wait for. Book a table on the Dorsia app to get a taste for yourself.

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